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Messages - rickharp

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1
Dryerbox and Dryer-Ell / Re: Square Pipe 4"wide by 3.25 deep
« on: September 14, 2017, 12:02:54 PM »
if your "90" broke, then one may assume the 90 was a 4" round 90, assuming there was round pipe protruding from the wall. 
if that is the case, then there may be a conversion fitting above it to convert from rectangle to round.  use that fitting further up in the wall, assuming the wall is greater than 4 inches of space.  Use a short piece of round duct to penetrate the top port of the Dryerbox. 
Take pictures if you can and post them here for others and my staff to learn from.  Thanks.

2
Dryerbox and Dryer-Ell / Re: Dryer Ell
« on: September 14, 2017, 11:55:38 AM »
Generally we recommend silver tape, but any of the options you listed have been used as well. 
Clamps are not effective in compressing the juncture. 
I have no issues with mating two 90's creating a "U". 
Hope this helps. 
Rick

3
Flex, Fittings and Terminations / Re: help determining which product needed
« on: September 14, 2017, 11:50:33 AM »
As long as the dryer is not "stacked" or on a pedestal, then the 3D is the right receptacle. 
It can be "retrofitted", meaning, it can be mounted onto the drywall instead of mounting the unit onto the studs and doing hours of drywall repair. 
See the images at this link, especially picture series number 5

https://dryerbox.com/dryerbox-installation-pictures.htm


4
Flex, Fittings and Terminations / Re: Drier vent diagonally ?
« on: August 28, 2017, 09:12:03 AM »
Not totally clear on your question. 
Dryer duct can run horizontal, vertical or diagonally in an attempt to terminate to the exterior in the shortest distance with the least amount of turns. 

5
Flex, Fittings and Terminations / Re: Dryer vent cap on roof
« on: July 31, 2017, 07:52:43 AM »
James, the mushroom style roof cap does not meet code as it does not have a damper.  Also, the design is very restrictive in efficiency.  Hate to suggest a 6 minute video, but the video is helpful in learning what options are available.  The video explains about the new code coming at the end of this year, as well as demonstrating actual blower/efficiency testing of 4 vent terminations. 

YouTube Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcGcgKytLbc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcGcgKytLbc

6
This practice is common, unfortunately.  If this was my predicament, and the vent was large enough to "force feed" the vent a couple inches up into the throat, then I'd be ok with this.  To keep the air from back flowing into my attic I would consider using an expandable foam product like Great Stuff, but being careful not to put too much in there, further diminishing the area of air flow. 

Others may have other input but having to put in a new vent may be more of an issue, considering the water tight install the roofer did originally.  Thanks for asking.

7
Flex, Fittings and Terminations / Re: How to support vertical duct?
« on: May 15, 2017, 06:39:42 AM »
Thanks for passing this along. 

8
Flex, Fittings and Terminations / Re: 3" Rigid Duct - Thoughts?
« on: May 15, 2017, 06:38:01 AM »
Wow, super sorry I missed this post.  Great question and you likely have moved ahead with something, but here is my response. 

Two important factors: one, is that the building code clearly indicates that the in wall ducting has to be 4" ID galvanized metal pipe.  so, if you were to sell the house one day, and the buyers inspector was pretty sharp, then they may have you replace it then.  The other issue is that 4" pipe provides 12.5 sq inches of area, 3" pipe provides 7.  that is almost 50% reduction (huge). 

New dryers create a lot of air flow and are expecting a 4" conduit to the outside.  You are hindering the units efficiency and wasting energy.  I bet the LintGard is indicating 1.2 wci of pressure or more.  ideally your pressure should be around .4 wci, measured with a Magnehelic Gauge. 

One more point: if you have a warranty issue in the future and the reduced conduit was discovered, you may not be covered.  Hope all this helps.  Thanks for asking. 

9
Standard or typical measurements of a Washer and Dryer that can be stacked is 27 Inches wide by 38 3/4 Inches high.  Also standard or typical is the location of the dryers’ exhaust port: center of unit (left to right) and the bottom of the 4-inch exhaust port is 2 inches above the bottom of the units’ support legs.  Therefore, the very bottom of the models 425, 350 or 480 should be 38 ¾” above the finished floor (the same height of the washer), assuming you are venting in an upward direction.
If venting downwards with a stacked dryer, it is our recommendation to not use our “down boxes” (4D and 3D) but to use our upward venting models (425, 350 and 480) installed upside down and the mounting heights would be: 45 3/4” to the upper (highest) end of the upside down Dryerbox. 
Note: the desired effect of the Dryerbox receptacle is to accommodate the collection and the connection of the dryers’ exhaust conduit (transition hose).  At one end of the Dryerbox is the connection to the wall and at the other end is the connection to the dryer.  Use the entire length of the Dryerbox to store the recoiled flex hose. 

Recommended installation heights for Stackable W&D

Guide to standard washer and dryer dimensions:
Average washer and dryer dimensions of the different models on the market. Dimensions will vary by brand and model, regard these as typical:
Side-by-side top-load washers and standard front-load dryers: 27 inches wide, 27 to 28 inches deep and 34 to 43 inches high (per appliance)
Stacked (combo): 27 inches wide, 30 to 32 inches deep and 75 inches tall (for the entire unit)
Compact: 24 inches wide, 22 to 24 inches deep and 33 to 34 inches tall (per appliance)
High-capacity front-loading washers and dryers: 27 inches wide, 32 to 34 inches deep and 35 to 42 inches tall (per appliance)

10
Good questions Jack
Don't laugh, but in that case I've suggested that you get on a ladder and as the unit is pushed back, you reach over the top of the unit with a pole or broom or something to help guide the flex into its final resting position.  A lot depends on what flex you use, and how mush assistance you have to provide.  Cutting the flex to the bare minimum length is key. 

The hardship that the drywall'd opening provides is properly mudding and fire stopping the balance of the cell you are using for the drywall recess, due to the round hole.  Besides it taking a lot of time to finish it off.  It is an option, but it's scary: if there was a fire back there, preventing it from gaining an easy route to the next level is crucial. 

Sorry for the delay in replying. 

11
Flex, Fittings and Terminations / Re: How to support vertical duct?
« on: February 26, 2016, 09:36:13 AM »
NJ, I am anxious to hear more about your ventless dryer... brand, cost, etc, and how it drained or disposed of the water it produces.  Please pass along to the group when you have time. 

sorry it took so long for me to reply. 
The preferred or typical way round rigid pipe is supported from sliding down is: metal strapping is generally wrapped around most of the pipe or wrapped all the way around the pipe and the ears of the strapping are mechanically attached to a wall or stud.  Silver tape is then applied to the strap/pipe area, which produces a significant restraint to the pipe sliding or moving within the strapping.  Hope this helps you or others.  Thanks for using the forum. 

12
sounds like you are hoping to use the exhaust pipe that penetrates that wall to the outside, and is low on the wall.  That is fine.  The flex I like the most for that connection is a product that Home Depot carries by GE. 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Flexible-Metal-Dryer-Duct-PM08X10085DS/205472610
it is a new but very superior vent hose. 

13
Building Codes / Re: Commercial building venting up and out
« on: November 16, 2015, 08:51:28 AM »
Most if not all dryers sold today are very capable of exhausting 45 to 60 feet with no problem.  I am not a fan of booster fans, and you really do not need one based on your distances.  I am a fan of what we call a long turn ell (www.dryer-ell.com) which, with its large radius turn, creates no friction loss.  I'd also recommend a hoodless wall vent to better project the airflow away from the building (www.dryerwallvent.com).  Wall: if there is no drywall installed yet, i'd add at least one 1x2 firring strip to the wall to create a 4.25" depth.  This keeps the 4" pipe round and provides enough depth for the more efficient dryerbox receptacle, (Model 425 Dryerbox).  All these can be viewed in the online store at store.dryerbox.com.  Hope this helps. 

14
Dryerbox and Dryer-Ell / Re: Inverting Model 4D
« on: June 08, 2015, 11:30:16 AM »
All our new construction boxes are available with NO HOLE for unusual situations, via special order, but not the retrofit verstions (powder coated ones that go on over the drywall). 

Make sure you have studied the 16 different DIY scenarios at the bottom of this link: http://www.dryerbox.com/photo_gallery.htm

all dryerbox's are so rigid they really only need connection to the bottom plate and one stud.  Retro's only need attachment to the bottom plate (pipe coming through port secures it tight to drywall). 

Reply or call with further comments or ideas.  Thanks for asking.  Rick

15
There are plenty of how to YouTube video's that demonstrate the proper way to replace or install roof vents. 
Firring out a wall with 1x2's to attain proper depth to keep dryer duct round and to use our 425 Dryerbox will require the whole wall be firred out, other wise there would be a weird step out in the wall, perhaps looking like a after thought alteration.  Just a FYI.  Thanks for asking the question. 

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