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Dryerbox and Dryer-Ell / Re: Square Pipe 4"wide by 3.25 deep
« Last post by Todd on April 10, 2017, 06:24:14 PM »
Keith, did you ever come up with a solution for your install?  I am in the same boat with 3x4 inch ducts in my wall.   It looks to be strapped to the studs, so removal seems difficult.   I am going to check on the price of getting a custom round to square transition built at a local duct shop.  In the attic, strangely enough, it transitions at the top plate to 4" round pipe.   
Standard or typical measurements of a Washer and Dryer that can be stacked is 27 Inches wide by 38 3/4 Inches high.  Also standard or typical is the location of the dryers’ exhaust port: center of unit (left to right) and the bottom of the 4-inch exhaust port is 2 inches above the bottom of the units’ support legs.  Therefore, the very bottom of the models 425, 350 or 480 should be 38 ¾” above the finished floor (the same height of the washer), assuming you are venting in an upward direction.
If venting downwards with a stacked dryer, it is our recommendation to not use our “down boxes” (4D and 3D) but to use our upward venting models (425, 350 and 480) installed upside down and the mounting heights would be: 45 3/4” to the upper (highest) end of the upside down Dryerbox. 
Note: the desired effect of the Dryerbox receptacle is to accommodate the collection and the connection of the dryers’ exhaust conduit (transition hose).  At one end of the Dryerbox is the connection to the wall and at the other end is the connection to the dryer.  Use the entire length of the Dryerbox to store the recoiled flex hose. 

Recommended installation heights for Stackable W&D

Guide to standard washer and dryer dimensions:
Average washer and dryer dimensions of the different models on the market. Dimensions will vary by brand and model, regard these as typical:
Side-by-side top-load washers and standard front-load dryers: 27 inches wide, 27 to 28 inches deep and 34 to 43 inches high (per appliance)
Stacked (combo): 27 inches wide, 30 to 32 inches deep and 75 inches tall (for the entire unit)
Compact: 24 inches wide, 22 to 24 inches deep and 33 to 34 inches tall (per appliance)
High-capacity front-loading washers and dryers: 27 inches wide, 32 to 34 inches deep and 35 to 42 inches tall (per appliance)
Flex, Fittings and Terminations / 3" Rigid Duct - Thoughts?
« Last post by Oldhousenewproblems on January 09, 2017, 07:37:29 PM »
I've recently moved into a house built in 1978, and just had a 2016 Samsung electric dryer installed a few weeks ago.

Features include indicator sensors/lights alerting the user to both a clogged lint screen, as well as compromised ducting.

The 4" inlet on the wall was mounted near the floor, however the existing flexible ducting had to make 2 x 90 degree turns plus a 180.

Accordingly- the indicator light for "compromised ducting" triggered after installation, which ultimately led me to the purchase of a dryerbox.

However, when opening up the wall- I discovered the 4" inlet was actually a 4" to 3" adapter. The actual 3" rigid metal ducting runs a total of 12' straight up and exits the roof with no 90 degree bends. It has a newly installed weatherguard with no screen on the roof.

Since this point, I have cleaned the full length of the ducting using a Gardus Linteater and I have opened up the wall and cut the rigid duct to the point where I was ready to install the dryerbox- then use a new 4" to 3" adapter to connect my flex hose up to. BUT:

I've just performed a test before installing the dryer box using new semi-rigid flexible aluminum duct.
(I have a Gardus Lintgard on order.)
The "compromised ducting" alert has not triggered with at least one 45 minute test run of the dryer.

Rigid venting reads approximately 110 degrees Fahrenheit behind where the dryerbox would be installed.

So, assuming the monometer reading is within specs for the given dryer- any concerns to raise here? Safety? Code compliance?

(Note: rigid vent replacement/upgrade will not be anything approaching a trivial installation)
Clogged Vents and Duct Cleaning / Re: compressor sizing
« Last post by meyermachine on June 23, 2016, 09:28:35 AM »

We're a manufacturer of Dryer Vent Cleaning tools that are powered by compressed air.  For cleaning of 4" dryer vent pipe, it is recommended to use a 2-stage air compressor that delivers AT LEAST 15 CFM @ 175 PSI.  Generally air compressors that meet this spec will have at least an 8 HP gasoline engine, or a 5 HP (230V) electric motor.  We hear "I wish my air compressor had a little more", very often from contractors that buy our tools, but insist on using the air compressor they already have.  Unfortunately, there is no replacement for the right air compressor.  When you start to deal with larger dryer ducts, you may find that other/larger tools are necessary to complete the cleaning.  In some cases a larger air compressor (up to 25 CFM@175PSI) is necessary. 

I'm happy to help you find the right tools and air compressor for your rig, give me a call  1-800-728-DUCT (3828).

Good Luck!

Clogged Vents and Duct Cleaning / compressor sizing
« Last post by CHenryMi on June 22, 2016, 05:31:11 AM »
Very interested in hearing from dryer venting professionals on opinions for hi pressure air exhaust cleaning.  Specifically, what compressor sizing in terms of cfm, psi, capacity, horse power, single or two stage, manufacture, are recommended for efficient use for residential and small commercial dryer applications?  Please share, if you have any, situations where you encountered, "I wish my compressor had a little more....".    Appreciate any and all feedback.  Thanks.   
Clogged Vents and Duct Cleaning / Re: Dryer vent customers
« Last post by In-O-Vate Cliff on March 30, 2016, 10:55:35 AM »
We work with 1,000s of dryer vent cleaning companies nationwide and can give you some insight to help grow your business.  Getting customers is key to your success and here are some avenues to consider.
- Appliance service companies - referral based relationships
- roofing companies - referrals based relationships
- attend local networking events
- website is a must!  Drive organic SEO and apply key words in your copy. 
- pay-per-click ad campaigns
- vehicle wraps to "drive" advertising

Feel free to call our office to learn more at 561-744-0473.  Thanks!  - Cliff Budnick, VP Business Development.

Clogged Vents and Duct Cleaning / Dryer vent customers
« Last post by Bmillermustang on March 30, 2016, 06:15:01 AM »
Does anyone here have a dryer vent cleaning business? If you do, how are you getting customers?
Dryerbox and Dryer-Ell / Re: how does flex hose push back into Dryerbox
« Last post by rickharp on March 10, 2016, 05:48:20 PM »
Good questions Jack
Don't laugh, but in that case I've suggested that you get on a ladder and as the unit is pushed back, you reach over the top of the unit with a pole or broom or something to help guide the flex into its final resting position.  A lot depends on what flex you use, and how mush assistance you have to provide.  Cutting the flex to the bare minimum length is key. 

The hardship that the drywall'd opening provides is properly mudding and fire stopping the balance of the cell you are using for the drywall recess, due to the round hole.  Besides it taking a lot of time to finish it off.  It is an option, but it's scary: if there was a fire back there, preventing it from gaining an easy route to the next level is crucial. 

Sorry for the delay in replying. 
Dryerbox and Dryer-Ell / how does flex hose push back into Dryerbox
« Last post by pilotjack59 on March 05, 2016, 10:11:11 PM »

My install is a stacked unit inside a closet built for the W/D.  I am going to vent up into the attic space and then across to go out the wall.

Keeping the depth of closet minimized is important so I'm looking at using the space in the 2x4 wall behind the units.  I dont mind fir'ing this out a bit.  to use the 2x6 unit.

A short flex hose connects between the dryer and the dryerbox.  I need to pull this out 3' to be able to disconnect the hose.  When I push the unit back, what makes the flex go back into the dryerbox rather than dropping down and getting squished between the dryer and the back wall?  I cant reach back there...

I'm sure the dryerbox looks great but why not just drywall the gap between the studs leaving an extra 3" for the 4" pipe?  It's going to be either behind or above the W/D and not very visible!  If it was, I could fir that out an extra inch above the unit and drywall that

I appreciate your thoughts and answers!


Flex, Fittings and Terminations / Re: How to support vertical duct?
« Last post by rickharp on February 26, 2016, 09:36:13 AM »
NJ, I am anxious to hear more about your ventless dryer... brand, cost, etc, and how it drained or disposed of the water it produces.  Please pass along to the group when you have time. 

sorry it took so long for me to reply. 
The preferred or typical way round rigid pipe is supported from sliding down is: metal strapping is generally wrapped around most of the pipe or wrapped all the way around the pipe and the ears of the strapping are mechanically attached to a wall or stud.  Silver tape is then applied to the strap/pipe area, which produces a significant restraint to the pipe sliding or moving within the strapping.  Hope this helps you or others.  Thanks for using the forum. 
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