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Flex, Fittings and Terminations / Re: Dryer vent cap on roof
« Last post by rickharp on July 31, 2017, 07:52:43 AM »
James, the mushroom style roof cap does not meet code as it does not have a damper.  Also, the design is very restrictive in efficiency.  Hate to suggest a 6 minute video, but the video is helpful in learning what options are available.  The video explains about the new code coming at the end of this year, as well as demonstrating actual blower/efficiency testing of 4 vent terminations. 

YouTube Link:
Flex, Fittings and Terminations / Dryer vent cap on roof
« Last post by jamesina on July 25, 2017, 07:00:14 PM »
After cleaning my dryer ventilation system with a leaf blower, I climbed a ladder to view the vent cap on my roof. The system vents straight up from the first floor up through the attic and then through the roof. The dryer vent cap is actually a plastic turtle cap. I am very concerned that this is not an adequate way to ventilate a dryer. Thoughts? TIA.
This practice is common, unfortunately.  If this was my predicament, and the vent was large enough to "force feed" the vent a couple inches up into the throat, then I'd be ok with this.  To keep the air from back flowing into my attic I would consider using an expandable foam product like Great Stuff, but being careful not to put too much in there, further diminishing the area of air flow. 

Others may have other input but having to put in a new vent may be more of an issue, considering the water tight install the roofer did originally.  Thanks for asking.

Hopefully you will not mind this amateur question: I recently had my roof replaced and the contractor replaced all of my vent terminations but did not go to the trouble of making sure that the vent actually extended into the new termination.  The new unit has no collar coming down from it and is simply an open hole that ends in a goose neck style vent to the roof.

While I can certainly add to the vent pipe itself to ensure that it extends up into the roof vent, I don't know how to seal the connection.  My first attempt had the pipe going about two inches into the unit but since it is not actually sealed up it is almost pointless.

Hopefully I am explaining myself well enough.  I know the obvious solution is to get a better model vent termination with the collar that comes down from it but I would rather not tear into the new roof myself.

Thanks in advance!
Flex, Fittings and Terminations / Re: How to support vertical duct?
« Last post by rickharp on May 15, 2017, 06:39:42 AM »
Thanks for passing this along. 
Flex, Fittings and Terminations / Re: 3" Rigid Duct - Thoughts?
« Last post by rickharp on May 15, 2017, 06:38:01 AM »
Wow, super sorry I missed this post.  Great question and you likely have moved ahead with something, but here is my response. 

Two important factors: one, is that the building code clearly indicates that the in wall ducting has to be 4" ID galvanized metal pipe.  so, if you were to sell the house one day, and the buyers inspector was pretty sharp, then they may have you replace it then.  The other issue is that 4" pipe provides 12.5 sq inches of area, 3" pipe provides 7.  that is almost 50% reduction (huge). 

New dryers create a lot of air flow and are expecting a 4" conduit to the outside.  You are hindering the units efficiency and wasting energy.  I bet the LintGard is indicating 1.2 wci of pressure or more.  ideally your pressure should be around .4 wci, measured with a Magnehelic Gauge. 

One more point: if you have a warranty issue in the future and the reduced conduit was discovered, you may not be covered.  Hope all this helps.  Thanks for asking. 
Flex, Fittings and Terminations / Re: How to support vertical duct?
« Last post by NJ Dave on May 13, 2017, 09:05:24 PM »
I just happened by here as I wanted to delete my unused passwords, and finally saw the response. Thanks!

The ventless dryer we purchased was a Whirpool WED99HEDW -- now discontinued, though Whirlpool has at least one similar model which has replaced it. We paid about $950, offset by a $300 energy efficiency rebate from the state. The dryer ingeniously uses a heat pump to recirculate the same air through the clothes for the entire cycle. The water is pumped out through a hose that empties into our laundry sink. It takes quite a bit longer to dry a load unless we use the auxiliary heater, and even then it's much more efficient than a standard dryer.
Dryerbox and Dryer-Ell / Re: Square Pipe 4"wide by 3.25 deep
« Last post by Todd on April 10, 2017, 06:24:14 PM »
Keith, did you ever come up with a solution for your install?  I am in the same boat with 3x4 inch ducts in my wall.   It looks to be strapped to the studs, so removal seems difficult.   I am going to check on the price of getting a custom round to square transition built at a local duct shop.  In the attic, strangely enough, it transitions at the top plate to 4" round pipe.   
Standard or typical measurements of a Washer and Dryer that can be stacked is 27 Inches wide by 38 3/4 Inches high.  Also standard or typical is the location of the dryers’ exhaust port: center of unit (left to right) and the bottom of the 4-inch exhaust port is 2 inches above the bottom of the units’ support legs.  Therefore, the very bottom of the models 425, 350 or 480 should be 38 ¾” above the finished floor (the same height of the washer), assuming you are venting in an upward direction.
If venting downwards with a stacked dryer, it is our recommendation to not use our “down boxes” (4D and 3D) but to use our upward venting models (425, 350 and 480) installed upside down and the mounting heights would be: 45 3/4” to the upper (highest) end of the upside down Dryerbox. 
Note: the desired effect of the Dryerbox receptacle is to accommodate the collection and the connection of the dryers’ exhaust conduit (transition hose).  At one end of the Dryerbox is the connection to the wall and at the other end is the connection to the dryer.  Use the entire length of the Dryerbox to store the recoiled flex hose. 

Recommended installation heights for Stackable W&D

Guide to standard washer and dryer dimensions:
Average washer and dryer dimensions of the different models on the market. Dimensions will vary by brand and model, regard these as typical:
Side-by-side top-load washers and standard front-load dryers: 27 inches wide, 27 to 28 inches deep and 34 to 43 inches high (per appliance)
Stacked (combo): 27 inches wide, 30 to 32 inches deep and 75 inches tall (for the entire unit)
Compact: 24 inches wide, 22 to 24 inches deep and 33 to 34 inches tall (per appliance)
High-capacity front-loading washers and dryers: 27 inches wide, 32 to 34 inches deep and 35 to 42 inches tall (per appliance)
Flex, Fittings and Terminations / 3" Rigid Duct - Thoughts?
« Last post by Oldhousenewproblems on January 09, 2017, 07:37:29 PM »
I've recently moved into a house built in 1978, and just had a 2016 Samsung electric dryer installed a few weeks ago.

Features include indicator sensors/lights alerting the user to both a clogged lint screen, as well as compromised ducting.

The 4" inlet on the wall was mounted near the floor, however the existing flexible ducting had to make 2 x 90 degree turns plus a 180.

Accordingly- the indicator light for "compromised ducting" triggered after installation, which ultimately led me to the purchase of a dryerbox.

However, when opening up the wall- I discovered the 4" inlet was actually a 4" to 3" adapter. The actual 3" rigid metal ducting runs a total of 12' straight up and exits the roof with no 90 degree bends. It has a newly installed weatherguard with no screen on the roof.

Since this point, I have cleaned the full length of the ducting using a Gardus Linteater and I have opened up the wall and cut the rigid duct to the point where I was ready to install the dryerbox- then use a new 4" to 3" adapter to connect my flex hose up to. BUT:

I've just performed a test before installing the dryer box using new semi-rigid flexible aluminum duct.
(I have a Gardus Lintgard on order.)
The "compromised ducting" alert has not triggered with at least one 45 minute test run of the dryer.

Rigid venting reads approximately 110 degrees Fahrenheit behind where the dryerbox would be installed.

So, assuming the monometer reading is within specs for the given dryer- any concerns to raise here? Safety? Code compliance?

(Note: rigid vent replacement/upgrade will not be anything approaching a trivial installation)
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