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SMF - Just Installed!

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 1 
 on: November 16, 2017, 03:38:22 PM 
Started by Jjsolon - Last post by Jjsolon
So I'm alittle confused on whats needed for my setup. Do I need the 1 hour fire rating? Requirement/code is 2012 IRC. I wanting to install the Db-350 and im going to be installing the dryer jack. So the room on the other side of the wall that my dryerbox will be installed on is a front living room. Framing is 2×4 wall and looks to be 1/2" drywall. Any help would be great.

 2 
 on: November 10, 2017, 12:37:06 AM 
Started by rickharp - Last post by Rashisport
This is so wonderful that I found it.

 3 
 on: October 02, 2017, 03:32:50 AM 
Started by LintSmith - Last post by JR.VOY
Sean, thanks for the posting.

The LintAlert in theory should work for lengths from 12" to 50 feet, but we have taken calls from one or two installers that indicated the unit would not take a calibration on a duct run that was straight out the back exterior wall.  Basically the very very short run, coupled with a very efficient termination hood and likely using the aluminum flex would likely provide such a low back pressure that the LintAlert thinks the dryer is not on.  The present firmware in the LintAlert is looking for back pressure above .20, and in a very very efficient run, it is possible that the pressure levels would be so low the unit refuses to capture the value.  Future versions of the firmware will likely be set to an even lower number to minimize these false positives. 

Your question focuses on run length, when the termination hood style and the type of flex transition hose factor heavily into the calculation as well.  The style of termination hood can have a tremendous effect on the back pressure levels.  This chart is pretty interesting.  www.dryerbox.com/ratings/efficient.htm

Hope this helps,
It is very good information.

 4 
 on: September 27, 2017, 10:09:00 PM 
Started by Rick A - Last post by Kenozeed
It is a very good idea I like.

 5 
 on: September 20, 2017, 05:46:31 AM 
Started by pattipat - Last post by pattipat
Thank you so much for your help.  I need to do a little more investigating to be sure what is located where in that wall, but hope to try this soon.

Thanks again,
Patti

 6 
 on: September 14, 2017, 12:02:54 PM 
Started by keith - Last post by rickharp
if your "90" broke, then one may assume the 90 was a 4" round 90, assuming there was round pipe protruding from the wall. 
if that is the case, then there may be a conversion fitting above it to convert from rectangle to round.  use that fitting further up in the wall, assuming the wall is greater than 4 inches of space.  Use a short piece of round duct to penetrate the top port of the Dryerbox. 
Take pictures if you can and post them here for others and my staff to learn from.  Thanks.

 7 
 on: September 14, 2017, 11:55:38 AM 
Started by Monkey - Last post by rickharp
Generally we recommend silver tape, but any of the options you listed have been used as well. 
Clamps are not effective in compressing the juncture. 
I have no issues with mating two 90's creating a "U". 
Hope this helps. 
Rick

 8 
 on: September 14, 2017, 11:50:33 AM 
Started by pattipat - Last post by rickharp
As long as the dryer is not "stacked" or on a pedestal, then the 3D is the right receptacle. 
It can be "retrofitted", meaning, it can be mounted onto the drywall instead of mounting the unit onto the studs and doing hours of drywall repair. 
See the images at this link, especially picture series number 5

https://dryerbox.com/dryerbox-installation-pictures.htm


 9 
 on: September 12, 2017, 12:08:03 PM 
Started by keith - Last post by mcleodbf1
Did anyone find a solution to this.  I am torn.  Bought a dryer box.  Love the idea but see no way to get it one without big issues.  My 90 broke at wall so I must do something.  Would appreciate any suggestions.  Was considering to cut hole in dryer box to match the rectangle but even that seems challenging.

 10 
 on: September 03, 2017, 01:01:19 PM 
Started by pattipat - Last post by pattipat
I've just discovered this product and am very excited about the possibility of using it in my new home.  This will be a retrofit, 2 x 4 wall with vent going down.  It appears I need a 3D for the downward vent, but I'm unsure, from what I've seen on this website, if this is a retrofit product.  I'm reasonably handy, should I be able to install this by myself?

Thanks,
Patti

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