Show Posts - rickharp

Dryer venting

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - rickharp

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 11
1
Dryerbox and Dryer-Ell / Re: Taping seam on dryer ell 90 degree
« on: July 30, 2018, 11:24:33 AM »
Our feeling is that the outboard seam will encounter sufficient airflow to periodically clean itself off.  Tape would be hard to get to fit smoothly.  I've always considered finger smearing the seam from within after they are mated (with some form of caulk on the joint).  Fan of fire caulk or some polyurethane based caulk.  Thanks for asking.  Maybe if you cut a 3/4" wide strip of metal tape would work too. 

2
Dryerbox and Dryer-Ell / Re: Major Venting Problems
« on: July 10, 2018, 12:41:08 PM »
Super sorry for the delay in responding.  I had surgery. 
We like to say, that the LT90 works and fits in floor joists that are at least 11.5" and the flooring has two layers of plywood.  Sounds like we may miss that.  The LT90 will not fit into the hole or port of the downbox, but only needs a 3.5" long nipple and it works, but maybe not for you cause of the depth of the floor joist. 

Newer dryers are very capable of pushing 35 to 50 feet of pipe, and you have to then deduct 5 feet for each 90, assuming you are using the twisty turn ells.  Aluminum flex is prohibited from being used in concealed spaces per code, but it may offer a better means to getting around all the obstructions.  Using a dryerbox does eliminate the one ell behind the dryer in the wall. 

Am happy though that you discovered the vinyl flex and removed it. 

Feel free to call me or reply.  thanks. 

3
Venting Efficiencies and the Fire Hazard / Re: Dryer Vent Through Ceiling Normal?
« on: April 23, 2018, 10:49:55 AM »
Sounds like this is a two story single family residence. 
Dryer venting in wall ducting is permitable up to 35 feet, less 5 feet for every elbow.  We suggest, the shortest distance with the least amount of ells, and a termination that is not near a door, window or AC compressor. 

Code does not allow you to vent into the garage.  Has to terminate outside somewhere. 
By a "LintEater" at home depot, Amazon or Lowes for $30.  They are great.  Consider leaving the termination where it is.  If the run is under 35 feet and super clean, it should be fine, unless you are unhappy with the exhaust fumes at the balcony. 

4
Dryerbox and Dryer-Ell / Re: Difficult external venting
« on: March 21, 2018, 03:18:56 PM »
Great to hear and thanks for taking the time to reply here. 

5
Dryerbox and Dryer-Ell / Re: 425 upward vent with an LG dryer on a pedestal
« on: March 06, 2018, 12:31:18 PM »
Great question. 
And yes.  a upward box (model 425 or 350) works great but has to be installed higher to capture the height of the new exhaust of the dryer.  These two models work great for aluminum or wire/foil flex but it is critical to locate the receptacle so that the flex is stored from top to bottom (use the entire cavity).   

Another option is to use the model 480 Dryerbox as it is large enough to encompass both the outlets of a floor standing dryer and a dryer on a pedestal.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6RqemwAu6i0 

6
Flex, Fittings and Terminations / Re: How to maintain the male to female direction of airflow
« on: March 06, 2018, 12:26:16 PM »
Great question. 
Flex transition hose (wire/foil or aluminum) generally or almost always goes over the hard pipe coming out of the back of the dryer and the hard pipe coming out of the wall or dryervent receptacle.  And at both locations, the best means of a secure connection is a worm drive clamp or large hose clamp.  We prefer stainless steel clamps.  Length: generally only use what you need, or in most cases about 4 feet of length is sufficient to make the connection and move dryer back into place. 

A great video online at YouTube is "Flex Hose Tips HD"  or link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yQXmq_BdUY

7
Dryerbox and Dryer-Ell / Re: Difficult external venting
« on: January 22, 2018, 05:49:52 PM »
call me.  see number above. 

8
Dryerbox and Dryer-Ell / Re: Difficult external venting
« on: January 15, 2018, 10:45:08 AM »
More Questions:
where are you in the country?  Climate: Does it get freezing cold?  if so, a DryerBox installed with no insulation may sweat inside causing water puddling. 
Is the future dryer on a pedestal or on floor? 
What is the exterior siding?  brick, stucco, lap siding...

If you are demo'ing the wallboard, then, depending on what "mechanicals" are preventing it, I may consider adding a firring strip to each stud if it was 2x4 framing and use the 425. 

Usually i prefer to help you on the phone. 

Also, a great resource is this gallery of picture stories from other installs:
https://dryerbox.com/dryerbox-installation-pictures.htm

Feel free to call me at work: five six one five 29-4607  Thanks

9
Building Codes / Re: 1 hour fire rating help needed
« on: November 29, 2017, 12:33:41 PM »
absolutely... no need for extra protection due to a singe family home.  Glad I could help.

10
Flex, Fittings and Terminations / Re: Painting the plastic dryer vent closure, what is best?
« on: November 28, 2017, 03:11:13 PM »
I am not aware of any images of a painted plastic wall vent.  Here is the link to the plastic paint. 
www.amazon.com/dp/B000GONZC0

11
Building Codes / Re: 1 hour fire rating help needed
« on: November 28, 2017, 03:08:42 PM »
I am not a fan of a inline screened filter like the DryerTrap.  They were invented to keep lint from building on the booster fan blades, but users started thinking it would minimize the lint accumulation on the roofs.  There are circumstances where a trap is worthy, but, there is significant restriction in air flow and another task to remember to take care of.  I am fond of a conduit system that is super clean, with minimal direction changes and a termination hood that provide no to minimal back pressure.  Hope this helps. 

12
Building Codes / Re: 1 hour fire rating help needed
« on: November 20, 2017, 01:45:14 PM »
A one hour fire rating is generally required for multifamily housing where there is a shared wall dividing two separate residences.  Some garage to living area walls also can require the wall be protected.  These walls use a special 5/8" Type X drywall. 

In your initial question, it sounds like you are in a single family home. 

Let me know if the room on the other side of the laundry room is another persons living area.  Hope this helps. thanks.

13
Dryerbox and Dryer-Ell / Re: Square Pipe 4"wide by 3.25 deep
« on: September 14, 2017, 02:02:54 PM »
if your "90" broke, then one may assume the 90 was a 4" round 90, assuming there was round pipe protruding from the wall. 
if that is the case, then there may be a conversion fitting above it to convert from rectangle to round.  use that fitting further up in the wall, assuming the wall is greater than 4 inches of space.  Use a short piece of round duct to penetrate the top port of the Dryerbox. 
Take pictures if you can and post them here for others and my staff to learn from.  Thanks.

14
Dryerbox and Dryer-Ell / Re: Dryer Ell
« on: September 14, 2017, 01:55:38 PM »
Generally we recommend silver tape, but any of the options you listed have been used as well. 
Clamps are not effective in compressing the juncture. 
I have no issues with mating two 90's creating a "U". 
Hope this helps. 
Rick

15
Flex, Fittings and Terminations / Re: help determining which product needed
« on: September 14, 2017, 01:50:33 PM »
As long as the dryer is not "stacked" or on a pedestal, then the 3D is the right receptacle. 
It can be "retrofitted", meaning, it can be mounted onto the drywall instead of mounting the unit onto the studs and doing hours of drywall repair. 
See the images at this link, especially picture series number 5

https://dryerbox.com/dryerbox-installation-pictures.htm


Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 11