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Standard or typical measurements of a Washer and Dryer that can be stacked is 27 Inches wide by 38 3/4 Inches high.  Also standard or typical is the location of the dryers’ exhaust port: center of unit (left to right) and the bottom of the 4-inch exhaust port is 2 inches above the bottom of the units’ support legs.  Therefore, the very bottom of the models 425, 350 or 480 should be 38 ¾” above the finished floor (the same height of the washer), assuming you are venting in an upward direction.
If venting downwards with a stacked dryer, it is our recommendation to not use our “down boxes” (4D and 3D) but to use our upward venting models (425, 350 and 480) installed upside down and the mounting heights would be: 45 3/4” to the upper (highest) end of the upside down Dryerbox. 
Note: the desired effect of the Dryerbox receptacle is to accommodate the collection and the connection of the dryers’ exhaust conduit (transition hose).  At one end of the Dryerbox is the connection to the wall and at the other end is the connection to the dryer.  Use the entire length of the Dryerbox to store the recoiled flex hose. 

Recommended installation heights for Stackable W&D

Guide to standard washer and dryer dimensions:
Average washer and dryer dimensions of the different models on the market. Dimensions will vary by brand and model, regard these as typical:
Side-by-side top-load washers and standard front-load dryers: 27 inches wide, 27 to 28 inches deep and 34 to 43 inches high (per appliance)
Stacked (combo): 27 inches wide, 30 to 32 inches deep and 75 inches tall (for the entire unit)
Compact: 24 inches wide, 22 to 24 inches deep and 33 to 34 inches tall (per appliance)
High-capacity front-loading washers and dryers: 27 inches wide, 32 to 34 inches deep and 35 to 42 inches tall (per appliance)

Sent in via email...

Rick - Let me start by saying that as an engineer I"m so impressed with your products!
My wife wants me to install an upper floor laundry in a linen closet.  I am planning on stacking two Samsung front loading machines on top of each other (not a single stacked unit).   This will be a gas dryer.  I'll be moving the back wall, so I can use 2x4 (preferred) or 2x6 construction, venting upwards. 
I live in Iowa, so it gets cold in the attic, which I think is my only option.  I can vent out a side wall, using one of your cool aluminum vents.  There is some chance of using a eave vent, but I don't think that will work as well.
I'm expecting to enter the attic vertically, then use one of your Dryer-Ells to go horizontal, then direct to a wall mounted vent.  I think I can keep the run to about 12 feet.
Here are my questions:
1)  Does the 2x4 box restrict airflow due to the oval squeeze?  I bet not?
2)  What is the best method for attaching your Premium vent to a vinyl sided house?    I kind of think just cut out a circle and bond it on to the siding at the top.
3)  Do you have a recommendation (or sell) insulating material to wrap the ducts in?
4)  Is a slope important on a horizontal run in the attic?
Thanks for any info,
Dave G
Cedar Rapids IA

Would love to install a Dryerbox into my home.  Do you happen to know of a professional installer in the San Francisco Bay Area that does this kind of work?

We have our laundry room as part of a hall between two doors and are space limited so could definitely use a few extra inches behind the dryer!

Best regards,

Sent in via email...

Dryerbox and Dryer-Ell / Difference in the Model 3D and 4D Dryerbox
« on: September 25, 2013, 10:48:36 AM »
The 3D measures 3.5" from the flange to the back of the box.  And the 4D measures 4.25" from the flange to the back of the box.  They both exhibit a round or almost round hole in the bottom, how is that so? 

In the 3D, the pipe or hole is located such that about 12% of the pipe would be in the plane of the drywall (not within the bottom plate totally).  This is accomplished by hiding this behind the lower extended lip.  Likewise, to use this Dryerbox (the 3D) it has to be mounted all the way to the floor, other wise the pipe would be exposed.  If you need a downward style receptacle for a mid-wall installation (pedestal dryer or stacked) you need to fir the wall out 3/4" and use either the Model 480 or 425 dryerbox.  The nice feature about the 480 is that is can be installed in either direction, and has square corners which in most cases makes for a easier finishing of the edges. 

This image shows clearly how the hole or port aligns with the flanges on the 4D and 3D Dryerboxes.  The pink shaded zone represents drywall.  Hope this helps. 

Question sent in from customer via email:

Don’t understand why the Premium Flush-mount Metal Dryer Wall Vent Part Number DWV4W is designed to go inside instead of outside of the 4” vent pipe, since the male end is supposed to always point in the direction of the air flow, not against it. Seems like wall vent pipe should be 4” or 4-1/16”, not 3-15/16”. 

Conrad H via email

I get asked often how best to prepare and paint galvanized vent hoods. 
Many times the proper paint can be found in the roofing isle, and is referred to as roof paint.  It's either an alkyd or acrylic-resin paint tinted to match the shingles the store might sell.  If this does not work out, ask the professional counter person in the paint department. 

Preparation is key to a good bond.  Remove all oil residue with mineral spirits and warm soapy water.  Let dry and with a 220 sand paper lightly scratch the material to provide some "grip".  Apply two coats allowing each coat to dry according to the directions. 

Dryerbox and Dryer-Ell / How to mount a Dryerbox in a CBS block wall
« on: August 31, 2012, 11:05:42 AM »
My engineering firm specs your dryer vent box whenever dryer vents are located in stud walls.  We’ve had a lot of commercial situations where the dryer is located against a block wall.  We usually have the contractor install the vent in the block wall.  We’d like to have the contractor use a dryer vent box in the block wall, but aren’t sure it’ll work.  Do you have any experience will that?  Or do you have a product designed for block wall use?

Nick Hunt
Mechanical Technician  

Submitted via an email question

What are the benefits of firring out a 2x4 wall when using a Dryerbox?
Can a Dryerbox be installed in a 2x4 wall?  
Why do you recommend the model 425 or 480 Dryerbox over the 2x4 version?

Questions we field from phone inquiries.

Why does the 4” pipe need to be squeezed smaller to fit the hole in the dryer box, model 500?
Isn’t that a 4” round opening?
Sent in via email from Gordon

We just bought a DB 400 Dryerbox and wondered why the hole was oval and not round? Thanks.

Pam M
Send in via email

Dryerbox and Dryer-Ell / Wide Dryerbox for euro and american dryers
« on: February 28, 2012, 02:31:23 PM »
Is there a Dryerbox that is wide enough that could be used for both euro and american dryers without knowing which dryer will be purchased during install?


via email

Can the use of your Dryer Box comply with Section 504.3 of the IMC as it relates to the cleanout requirement?  And if so, what documentation can you provide.  Thanks

Sent in via email from Charles C – Architect – Medford NJ

It appears your LIntAlert is for 110 volt outlets, but my dryer is 220v.  Do you have a 220v version?

Sent in via email from Gordon

Flex, Fittings and Terminations / Cleaning access to the new DryerJack Zero
« on: February 03, 2012, 11:49:39 AM »
Sent in via email:

Quick question on the DryerJack Zero: Can you clean from the roof? Is there adequate room to feed in cleaning rods from the outside?


Larry B
Owner & Certified Dryer Exhaust Technician
Dryer Vent Wizard of Southeast Michigan

Even after clamping down tight with a worm drive clamp, the flex continues to barely feel secure and slides off easily.  What is the best product or solution to this? 

Sent in from a Dryerbox store customer via email.

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